A Classic Pea Coat
Lining and Interior Finish
I selected a polyester fabric with a satin finish for my lining. I actually prefer rayon linings especially when working with natural fibers, but I wasn’t able to find the color I needed to complement the face fabric, so I opted for a synthetic. In this tutorial, I will go over how to put in a lining with emphasis on finishing details.
Step 1. Once the lining is assembled, top stitch the seam line of the sleeve sewing on the sleeve piece (not the body of the lining) catching the seam allowance underneath.
Step 2. With stitching completed, turn to the inside and trim away the excess seam allowance.
Step 3. On right side of fabric, pinch press seam and roll stitched line into sleeve.
Step 4. Press entire seam to encourage the sleeve to roll towards the sleeve edge to create a smooth interior finish. This helps the lining “ride” over the interior seam of the coat sleeve.
This shows the nice clean line you will get once it has been pressed.
Step 5. Double breasted garments often include interior buttonholes on the inside facing to hold the front of coat in place. Sew in buttonholes before attaching lining (it’s a lot easier before than after). I use my machine for buttonholes, because they will not be seen when wearing.Careful measuring for proper alignment is very important in this step.
Step 6. Attach back facing to collar at the neckline edge using hand stitching.
Step 7. Insert shoulder pads and hand stitch into position.
Step 8. Press 5/8 inch seam allowance under on sleeve edges and at the bottom of the lining before attaching it to the coat.
Step 9. Pin lining to interior front and neck facings and stitch into position.
Step 10. Use a machine basting stitch to sew in the lining in. A long stitch is easier to remove for alterations or lining replacement. Leave an opening near the bottom of the front facing as shown below.
Step 11. Turn lining to right side out and lightly press edges down, being careful not to over press. Stitch lining at hem edge first and press, Then slip stitch down on both front facings as shown below.
Step 12. Sew interior buttons into position using a flat button utility button.
Step 11. Sew fashion buttons on front of coat paying careful attention to alignment.
Step 12. Take to dry cleaners for a final press. A professional press really adds to the look of the garment by smoothing out all construction wrinkles. It is a must for any tailored garment.
So, it’s off to the cleaners. Until next time, Happy Sewing!