Tag Archives: skirt

Sewing – New Season, New Skirt

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Fall Fashion

I love this time of year…  the week or so between the last dog-days of summer and the first prickle in the morning air which heralds the changing of the season.  As much as I enjoy summer, I’m always ready for transitioning into my fall wardrobe with all the bold and beautiful colors of the harvest, the earthy reds and golds and green the speak of hearth and home and bounty.  Oh my, I might have to burst into song if I go on, so let it suffice to say that I’m happy to carry on with my fall sewing.

Being seriously committed to not buying any new fabric until I’ve worked through a portion of my backlog, I went to my existing fabric stash for inspiration and came up with a great remnant of wool twill in, you guessed it, a rich autumnal gold.   I adore this color and twill texture;  I’ve used it in several suits in the past.  I’ve been sitting on it for quite some time waiting for just the right pattern to come along.   This week, inspiration finally arrived and here it the happy result.

I used Vogue 8363 skirt pattern view D.  I prefer skirts without waistbands, because I find them to be more comfortable.  Eliminating the waistband requires the creation of front and back waistline facings.  The pattern is unlined, so I also created a lining to attach to the facings.

I always line wool skirts both for giving shape and support to the wool and also for comfort.  A nicely constructed lining helps the skirt slide over the body and is more flattering, not to mention it just looks better to have the seams and interior work hidden from view in.  My feeling is that when working with quality fabrics, it’s worth the extra cost and effort to create a beautiful interior finish.

Once the lining was attached it was time to select buttons.  I have a rather large collection of vintage buttons inherited from a Great Aunt.  I used some of her buttons for this skirt.  I carefully measured and marked the buttonhole placement with basting thread and machine stitched the buttonholes.

After buttonholes were stitched, I clipped them open and sewing buttons in place being mindful of proper alignment.

As with all wool garments, I will take this in for a professional press which will put a nice finish on it.  But until then, I’m publishing several pictures to show you how versatile it will be in my fall wardrobe.  And best of all, it didn’t cost me a dime… it all came from what I had on had and that’s a great feeling.

Sewing Tutorial – Making An Underskirt

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It’s a cold, gray and intermittently rainy day… so typical of April weather in the Pacific Northwest.  I am so tired of the damp and am dreaming of sunny days that will soon be here.  I will be ready for the warm weather once it arrives, now that I have completed my underskirt to go with my white linen dress.  It turned out just as I had hoped; it’s pretty, it adds interest and best of all it has the practical purpose of providing a lining to what is otherwise a very see-through dress. See-through dresses are… well… embarrassing and while wearing a nylon slip under a natural fiber sundress might sound like an option for some, in my world slips and sundresses somehow just won’t do.  And so you see, I really had no choice other than to make my own cool underskirt.

1)  I started by searching through my pattern library for something I could modify to my needs.  I found what I was looking for in this skirt pattern by New Look.

2)  I chose a rayon lining which is perfect for warm weather, because it breaths, and doesn’t cling, and is quiet (I don’t like to hear a rustle of fabric unless, of course, I’m in my tafetta gown at the cotillion).   I stitched the side seams and serged the edges for a clean finish.

3)  I determined the length and width of the “fashion” fabric (fashion fabric is meant to be seen) I wanted to attached to the bottom of lining (lining is meant not to be seen).  I didn’t want it to be a full ruffle, so I eliminated much of the width from the original pattern piece.

4)  Then the side seams were stitched and serged.

5)  After the side seams were completed, I stitch three rows of machine basting (the longest stitch setting on your machine).  The first row was stitched at  3/8″, then at 5/8″ and the last at 3/4″. Once the three rows of basting were in place, I began to draw up the threads to create gathers, securing the end threads on a pin.

6)  With the ruffle gathered to the desired width, I pinned it to the lower edge of the skirt lining.

7)  I then sewed the ruffle to the skirt lining using the 5/8″ gathering line as a stiching guide.  Once the ruffle was attached, I removed the 3/4″ line of basting .

8)  Next I created a casing at the top of the skirt to run elastic through.  I turned down enough fabric to allow for room to slide my elastic through plus a little extra so I could tuck the raw edges under the fold to create a finished edge.

9)  Then I stitched the casing leaving a space open for elastic insertion.

10)  Then using a bodkin (a sewing tool designed for pulling elastic or cording through a casing… a safety pin will work in a pinch) I inserted the elastic pre-measured to fit my waist.  Once the elastic was through the casing I stitched the ends together and stitched the casing closed.

11) And here we have the finished underskirt ready to be worn on the first warm day that comes along.  I think this might be quite a versatile piece and I may be able to wear it with some other things I have.  I’ll be making a visit to my closet to see what else it might go with.

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