Chanel-Style Jacket

Standard

Streamlined Couture

Applying Braided Trim Tutorial

I’ve been working for the past week or so on a Chanel-style jacket to go with the skirt I made recently.  I studied Vogue designer Claire Shaeffer’s pattern with the wonderful couture details, but decided instead to use the much simplified Vogue 7975 which has the Chanel look without all the extra work.  I thought for my first effort at making a Chanel jacket choosing the easier pattern might be the best option.

Chanel jacket

I used the same fuchsia boucle that I used in the skirt I made recently; I’m thinking Spring suit.  Easter comes early this year and the prospect of shivering in the cold made a wool suit seem like practical, if not entirely seasonal, option.  Finding a suitable trim proved to be a challenge.  I began with one that unfortunately didn’t provide the look I wanted bringing about a full scale city-wide search for the perfect Chanel braid.  I lucked out by finding this particular piece in the home decorating department of Fabric Depot on a clearance rack. Clearance is good as it takes in excess of 5 yards of braid to complete the jacket.

fuchsia boucle and trim

After studying the pattern, I decided that I preferred the look of two square pockets on each side as shown in Vogue 8804, so had to make size and placement determinations.  I interfaced each pocket square and then pressed the 1 inch pocket facing.  Before stitching the facing in place, I determined trim placement taking care to pre-shrink the trim first.  Some trims stretch out quite a bit from being stored on cards or spools; a good shot of steam will draw up the slack and avoid unwanted puckering.

braid placement on pocket

Using a basting stitch, I attached the braid to the pocket and then permanently attached it using two rows of back stitching.

applying braid by hand

back stitching braid into position

After securing the braid into position, I completed all four pockets and hand stitched them into position on the jacket front.  Lining them up was a little tricky, but after measuring like a Turkish tailor, I finally got it.

completed pocket

I decided not to apply braid around the bottom of the jacket, because I had made the longer version and preferred not to draw the eye to the hip line.  If I were to make the shorter view, I would definitely put braid all the way around.  To my surprise, this jacket has no shoulder pads and wears more like a sweater than a jacket.  I also want to experiment with the sleeves,  I really like the braid on Claire Shaeffer’s vented sleeve and will be experimenting with adding a vent to the basic design sleeve pattern… the next time I’m feeling adventurous.

finished jacket after a final press

I highly recommend this pattern and intend to make it again.

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36 responses »

  1. ah! You’ve done an amazing job! I always want to sew a Chanel style jacket (still do!) I thought of taking a proper sewing class to learn this but timing isn’t right. I’ll refer back to your blog in the future when I’m making one! thank you!

    • Yes, that was a lucky break indeed. I agree that trim and button are critical in this type of jacket and that was the biggest challenge… to find things that worked. Thanks for noticing. 🙂

  2. This jacket looks very, very comfy. You’re right to compare it to a sweater. The overall look is very soft. I think you did a very good job with the trim, pocket placement and the choice of buttons.

    • I’ve always looked at her pant pattern; it looks like it would be a good one, but I find pants so difficult to fit. I’ve read article after article and tried so many different methods, but rarely have what I consider to be success. Maybe I should give her pattern a try. Thank you for your nice compliment. 🙂

    • Patty, this is one of the easiest jacket patterns and a very good one for a first time try. I do have some tutorials that may be of help to you. I would recommend reading the various tutorials I put together on coat making. The same principles apply to jackets. My entry entitled “Pocket Perfection” would be especially helpful; it shows in detail how to construct a patch pocket and the technique for hand stitching it into position. Also, I have an entry on applying bias binding if you decided to use that application; I can’t rememer the title right off, but I could find it if you need it. If you decide to try it, please feel free to ask for advice… I’d be most happy to help. I strongly encourage you to step out and give it a try. It is such a good thing to be able to make your own jackets… saves tons of money and you get exactly what YOU want. 🙂

    • Thanks so much. Finding the right buttons was “almost” as hard as finding the right trim. I think maybe because the styling is very simple that the accessory notions become the focus of the piece. That might explain the struggle. I’m glad you like it. 🙂

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