Tricks of the Trade – A Pocket Flaps Tutorial

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Making An Invisible Pocket Flap Lining

I’m working on a tailored jacket that has welt pockets with flaps and I’m going to show you how to make a lining that will roll under and be completely hidden from view.  (I apologize for the poor quality of some of my photos…  think my camera battery may be going).

1.  Sometimes pattern guides will instruct you to cut four pocket flaps from the face fabric.  I prefer to cut two in lining instead, because lining adds less bulk allowing the finished flaps to be molded into place more easily.  This is an individual decision based on whatever fabric you are using and the look you prefer.  I have a thing about stiff pocket flaps that flare out… dont’ like that look.

2.  Once the lining is cut, trim away the edge at 1/16 inch on three sides making the lining slightly smaller than the face fabric.  Do no trim the top edge.

3.  Apply light interfacing to face fabric and pin to lining, right sides together.  Begin the pinning at the top corners first and then work down the sides and lower edge.

4.  Once pinned together there will be a slight bubbling effect caused by the variation in size of the two pieces.  This is to be expected and will self-correct when pieces are turned right side out.

5.  Stitch the two pieces together, slightly stretching when necessary.  Use small stitches as the points for added strength.  The small stitched also protect the fabric from fraying in the trimming process.

6. Grade away excess seam line leaving face side of fabric slightly longer than the lining side.

7.  Once excess seam allowance is trimmed away, trim corners to a point and clip off the end.  This will make it easier to turn and give a sharper finished point.

8.  Turn right side out and press.  You may understitch at this point if you wish.  I generally don’t understitch flaps unless the fabric calls for it (with a heavier coatings, perhaps).   I prefer to hand-roll and work the edges under by shaping with steam.

9. Press and shape, rolling face fabric slightly toward the back side.  Lining will not show on the front side (see photo 10).

10.   Baste across the top of the flap.  At this point, if you wish, you may apply top stitching.

11.  Finished pocket flap is ready for application to pocket.

I hope this is helpful and if you  have any questions, please ask away.

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5 responses »

  1. thank you for this! I am adding some pockets to a coat and was wondering about construction steps such as this one. 🙂 And it was so well written the couple of blurry pics didnt matter!

    • Hey, good timing! I hope you’ll post your coat when it’s finished. Thank you for letting me know that you found it easy to follow and that the pictures were OK. I’m glad you found it helpful.

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